Review

Sustainable management of textile and clothing

  • Received: 16 April 2021 Accepted: 31 August 2021 Published: 08 September 2021
  • Textile and clothing industry (T&C) is the second largest industry in the manufacturing sector. Currently, the industry operates on a linear model. Its value-chain is associated with several problems such as environment pollution (solid wastes, effluent discharges, air pollution, and emission of greenhouse gases), and resources extraction and depletion (raw materials, water, energy). These problems present the challenges that are addressed in this paper. These problems are further exacerbated by the rapid growth in population and attendant need for economic growth. There is therefore need to begin to address how to make the industry more sustainable. This will entail reviewing the entire T&C value chain from raw material extraction to post-consumption of its products. Nigeria, an emerging economy is used as a proxy for the study. The management of textile/clothing wastes in Nigeria does not follow best practices, as the wastes are generally, disposed at dumpsites. Even though Nigeria is rich in natural resources to produce textiles, the country largely depends on importation of finished T&C goods. This paper uses three models namely: new business model, efficient waste management system, and regenerative production processes and materials to demonstrate how the industry can become more sustainable. This effort will focus on reuse and recycling of textile and clothing products. Emphasis is built on eco-design to encourage proper waste management system to support recovery, reprocessing, reuse, and recycling of textile and clothing products.

    Citation: Chukwuebuka C. Okafor, Christian N. Madu, Charles C. Ajaero, Juliet C. Ibekwe, Chinelo A. Nzekwe. Sustainable management of textile and clothing[J]. Clean Technologies and Recycling, 2021, 1(1): 70-87. doi: 10.3934/ctr.2021004

    Related Papers:

  • Textile and clothing industry (T&C) is the second largest industry in the manufacturing sector. Currently, the industry operates on a linear model. Its value-chain is associated with several problems such as environment pollution (solid wastes, effluent discharges, air pollution, and emission of greenhouse gases), and resources extraction and depletion (raw materials, water, energy). These problems present the challenges that are addressed in this paper. These problems are further exacerbated by the rapid growth in population and attendant need for economic growth. There is therefore need to begin to address how to make the industry more sustainable. This will entail reviewing the entire T&C value chain from raw material extraction to post-consumption of its products. Nigeria, an emerging economy is used as a proxy for the study. The management of textile/clothing wastes in Nigeria does not follow best practices, as the wastes are generally, disposed at dumpsites. Even though Nigeria is rich in natural resources to produce textiles, the country largely depends on importation of finished T&C goods. This paper uses three models namely: new business model, efficient waste management system, and regenerative production processes and materials to demonstrate how the industry can become more sustainable. This effort will focus on reuse and recycling of textile and clothing products. Emphasis is built on eco-design to encourage proper waste management system to support recovery, reprocessing, reuse, and recycling of textile and clothing products.



    加载中


    [1] Malik A, Akhtar R, Grohmann E (2014) Environmental deterioration and human health: Natural and anthropogenic determinants, 1-421.
    [2] Snoek S (2017) Circular economy in the textile industry: Transition theory in Dutch start-ups towards a circular economy Published MSc Thesis, Climate Studies, Environmental Policy Group.
    [3] ENTeR, Expert Network on Textile Recycling, Strategic agenda on textile waste management and recycling, European Regional Development Fund. Available from: https://www.interreg-central.eu/Content.Node/Stategic-Agenda.pdf.
    [4] Yasin S, Behary N, Perwuelz A, et al. (2017) Life cycle assessment of flame retardant cotton textiles with optimized end-of-life phase. J Clean Prod 172: 1080-1088. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.10.198
    [5] Koszewska M (2018) Circular economy - challenges for the textile and clothing industry. AUTEX Res J 18: 337-347. doi: 10.1515/aut-2018-0023
    [6] Patti A, Cucala G, Aciemo D (2020) Eco-sustainability of the textile production: Waste recovery and current recycling in the composites world. Polymers 13: 1-25. doi: 10.3390/polym13010134
    [7] Koligkioni A, Parajuly K, Sørensen B, et al. (2018) Environmental assessment of end-of-life textiles in Denmark. Procedia CIRP 69: 963-967. doi: 10.1016/j.procir.2017.11.090
    [8] Johnson S, Echeverria D, Venditti R, et al. (2020) Supply chain of waste cotton recycling and reuse: A review. AATCC J Res 7: 19-31. doi: 10.14504/ajr.7.S1.3
    [9] Bick R, Halsey E, Ekenga C (2018) The global injustice of fast fashion. Environ Health 17: 1-4. doi: 10.1186/s12940-018-0433-7
    [10] Greenofchange, nd, Impact of the textile industry on the environment. Available from: https://www.greenofchange.com/textile-pollution#:~:text=Due%20to%20the%20numbers%20that,pollution%20and%20solid%20waste%20pollution.
    [11] World Economic Forum, Is fashion bad for the environment? 2020. Available from: https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2020/01/fashion-industry-carbon-unsustainable-environment-pollution/.
    [12] Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion's future, 2017. Available from: https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy.
    [13] Sajn N (2019) Environmental impact of the textile and clothing industry: What consumers need to know, European Parliamentary Research Service (EPRS), 1-10.
    [14] Lehner M, Mont O, Mariani G, et al. (2020) Circular economy in home textiles: Motivations of IKEA consumers in Sweden. Sustain 12: 1-23. doi: 10.3390/su12125030
    [15] Greenblue, Chemical recycling: Making fiber-to-fiber recycling a reality for polyester textiles, 2017. Available from: http://shift.tools/resources/1665.
    [16] Rodale Institute, Dig deeper: Chemical cotton, 2014. Available from: https://rodaleinstitute.org/chemical-cotton/.
    [17] Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group, Pulse of the fashion industry, 2017, 11.
    [18] Ghaly A, Ananthashankar R, Alhattab M, et al. (2014) Production, characterization and treatment of effluent textiles: A critical review. J Chem Eng Process Technol 5: 1-18.
    [19] Jain R, Bhargava M, Sharma N (2003) Electrochemical Studies on a Pharmaceutical Azo Dye: Tartrazine. Ind Eng Chem Res 42: 243-247. doi: 10.1021/ie020228q
    [20] Islam M, Mostafa M (2018) Textile dyeing effluents and environmental concerns: A review. J Environ Sci Nat Resour 11: 131-144.
    [21] D'Ambrogio E (2014) Workers' conditions in the textile and clothing sector: just an Asian affair? Issues at stake after the Rana Plaza tragedy. European Parliamentary Research Service (EPRS) Briefing. Available from: https://www.europarl.europa.eu/EPRS/140841REV1-Workers-conditions-in-the-textile-and-clothing-sector-just-an-Asian-affair-FINAL.pdf.
    [22] Aßländer MS (2019) Sweated labor as a social phenomenon lessons from the 19th century sweatshop discussion. J Business Ethics 170: 313-328.
    [23] Abur B, Oguche E, Duvuna G (2014) Characterization of municipal solid waste in the Federal Capital Abuja, Nigeria. Glob J Sci Front Res H Environ Earth Sci 14: 1-6.
    [24] Ogwueleka TC (2013) Survey of household waste composition and quantities in Abuja, Nigeria. Resour Conserv Recycl 77: 52-60. doi: 10.1016/j.resconrec.2013.05.011
    [25] Ajila K (2019) Analysis of post-consumer solid textile waste management among households in Oyo State of Nigeria. J Environ Prot 10: 1419-1435. doi: 10.4236/jep.2019.1011084
    [26] Adeyi A, Adeyemi A (2017) Characterization and leaching assessment of municipal solid wastes generated in Lagos and Ibadan, Nigeria. Niger J Sci 51: 47-56.
    [27] Ugwu C, Ozoegwu C, Ozor P (2020) Solid waste quantification and characterization in university of Nigeria, Nsukka campus, and recommendations for sustainable management. Heliyon 6: e04255. doi: 10.1016/j.heliyon.2020.e04255
    [28] Ekwule O, Nwafor O, Ufedo M (2020) Per capital solid waste generation and characterization in Makurdi metropolis, Nigeria. J Eng Sci 6: 33-40.
    [29] Sharma A (2009) Pre-feasibility report for solid waste management in Nigeria, An overview. United Nations Industrial Development Organization.
    [30] Netherlands Enterprise Agency (2020) Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Scoping mission waste and circular economy to Lagos, Nigeria.
    [31] Okafor C, Ajaero C, Madu C, et al. (2020) Implementation of circular economy principles in management of end-of-life tyres in a developing country (Nigeria). AIMS Environ Sci 7: 406-433. doi: 10.3934/environsci.2020027
    [32] Calvo-Porral C, Levy-Mangin J (2020) The circular economy business model: Examining consumers' acceptance of recycled goods. Admin Sci 10: 1-13.
    [33] Ellen Macarthur Foundation, 2013, Towards the circular economy: Economic and business rationale for an accelerated transition. Available from: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications/towards-the-circular-economy-vol1-an-economic-and-business-rationale-for-an-accelerated-transition.
    [34] Udeani N (2017) Textile waste recycling: An innovative creativity for entrepreneurial sustainability in Nigeria. Trop Built Environ 1: 88-99.
    [35] African Development Bank Group (AFDB) Final Report, 2016, Report on the feasibility for the development of the online fashionomics platform. Available from: https://www.afdb.org/fileadmin/uploads/afdb/Documents/Generic-Documents/Final_Report_AFDB_Fashionomics_-_Investing_in_the_African_Creative_Industries_for_the_Continent_s_Inclusive_Growth.pdf.
    [36] Archroma (2016) Archroma to showcase innovative solutions for enhanced color performance and sustainability at China Interdye 2016 in Shanghai. Available from: https://www.archroma.com/press/releases/archroma-to-showcase-innovative-solutions-for-enhanced-color-performance-and-sustainability-at-china-interdye-2016-in-shanghai.
    [37] Outside Business Journal, Patagonia's $1 million bet on eco-friendly water repellency, 2015. Available from: https://www.outsidebusinessjournal.com/issues/sustainability/materials/patagonias-1-million-bet-on-eco-friendly-water-repellency/.
    [38] Johnson S, Selin S (2015) Circular economy in the clothing industry: Identification and evaluation of circular opportunities for MQ retail, Published MSc Thesis, Technology Management and Economics, Chalmers University of Technology, Göteborg.
    [39] Lakhan C, Extended producer responsibility for textiles? Not so fast, 2019. Available from: https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/extended-producer-responsibility-textiles-so-fast-calvin-lakhan-ph-d.
    [40] Norris L (2015) The limits of ethicality in international markets: Imported second-hand clothing in India. Geoforum 67: 183-193. doi: 10.1016/j.geoforum.2015.06.003
    [41] Zamani B (2011) Carbon footprint and energy use of textile recycling techniques. Case study: Sweden. Published MSc Thesis, Dept of Chemical and Biological Engineering, Chalmers University of Technology, Göteborg, Sweden.
    [42] Rajput D, Bhagade SS, Raut SP, et al. (2012) Reuse of cotton and recycle paper mill as building material. Constr Build Mater 34: 470-475. doi: 10.1016/j.conbuildmat.2012.02.035
    [43] Serra A, Tarrés Q, Llop M, et al. (2019) Recycling dyed cotton textile byproduct fibers as polypropylene reinforcement. Text Res J 89: 2113-2125. doi: 10.1177/0040517518786278
    [44] Sandin G, Peters GM (2018) Environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling - A review. J Clean Prod 184: 353-365. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.266
    [45] Youhanan L (2013) Environmental assessment of textile material recovery techniques: Examining textile flows in Sweden, Published MSc Thesis, Industrial Ecology, KTH.
    [46] Jeihanipour A, Aslanzadeh S, Rajendran K, et al. (2012) High-rate biogas production from waste textile using a two-stage process. Renew Energy 52: 128-135. doi: 10.1016/j.renene.2012.10.042
    [47] Menon V, Rao M (2012) Trends in bioconversion of lignocellulose: Biofuels, platform chemicals and biorefinery concept. Prog Energy Combust Sci 38: 522-550. doi: 10.1016/j.pecs.2012.02.002
    [48] Castellani V, Sala S, Mirabella N (2015) Beyond the throwaway society: a life cycle-based assessment of the environmental benefit of reuse. Integr Environ Assess Manag 11: 373-382. doi: 10.1002/ieam.1614
    [49] Zamani B, Sandin G, Peters GM (2017) Life cycle assessment of clothing libraries: Can collaborative consumption reduce the environmental impact of fast fashion? J Clean Prod 162: 1368-1375. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.06.128
    [50] PwC, Price Water Coopers (2016) Nigeria: Looking beyond oil, PwC, 1-32.
    [51] Business Day Intelligence, The Nigeria retail sector report 2014/2015. Business Research and Intelligence (BRIU), Apapa Lagos, 2014. Available from: https://businessday.ng/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Nigeria-retail-sector-report-2014-.pdf.
    [52] EPA (2010) Landfill recovery and use in Nigeria (Pre-feasibility studies of using LFGE). Grant Number: XA83367801, US Environmental Protection Agency and Centre for People and Environment (CPE).
    [53] Imam A, Mohammed B, Wilson D, et al. (2008) Solid waste management in Abuja, Nigeria. Waste Manag 28: 468-472. doi: 10.1016/j.wasman.2007.01.006
    [54] Sha'Ato R, Aboyo S, Oyetunde F, et al. (2007) Survey of solid waste generation and composition in rapidly growing urban area in central Nigeria. Waste Manag 29: 352-358. doi: 10.1016/j.wasman.2006.02.008
    [55] VOA, Voice of America, Nigeria's population projected to double by 2050, 2019. Available from: https://www.voanews.com/africa/nigerias-population-projected-double-2050.
    [56] Journal of Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering, nd. About textile materials. Available from: https://www.scitechnol.com/scholarly/textile-materials-journals-articles-ppts-list-php.
    [57] The Columbia Electronic Encyclopedia, 6th ed. Textiles: types of textiles. Columbia University Press, 2012. Available from: https://www.infoplease.com/encyclopedia/life/fashion/textiles/textiles/types-of-textiles.
    [58] Circle economy, Closing the loop: 3 case studies highlighting the potential impact of high-value, textile recycling, 2017. Available from: https://www.circle-economy.com/resources/closing-the-loop-3-case-studies-highlighting-the-potential-impact-of-high-value-textile-recycling.
    [59] Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) (2007) Non-wood forest products: World bamboo resources - A thematic study prepared in the framework of the Global Forest Resources Assessment 2005. Available from: http://www.fao.org/3/a1243e/a1243e.pdf.
    [60] Nayak L, Mishra S (2016) Prospect of bamboo as a renewable textile fiber, historical overview, labeling, controversies and regulation. Fash Text 3: 1-23. doi: 10.1186/s40691-015-0053-6
    [61] Ogunwusi A, Jolaoso M (2012) Bamboo, conservation of environment and sustainable development in Nigeria. Adv Arts Soc Sci Educ 2: 346-358.
    [62] Hymann Y, Material guide: Is bamboo fabric sustainable? 2020. Available from: https://goodonyou.eco/bamboo-fabric-sustainable/.
    [63] Ibrahim H, Ogunwusi A (2017) Imperatives for bamboo textiles production in Nigeria. Civ Environ Res 9: 12-18.
    [64] Laboy-Nieves EN (2014) Energy recovery from scrap tires: A Sustainable option for small islands like Puerto Rico. Sustain 6: 3105-3121. doi: 10.3390/su6053105
    [65] Le Bas C (2016) The importance and relevance of frugal innovation to developed markets: Milestones towards the economics of frugal innovation. J Innov Econ Manag 21: 3-8. doi: 10.3917/jie.021.0003
    [66] Jambeck J, Geyer R, Wilcox C, et al. (2015) Plastic waste inputs from land into ocean. Science 347: 768-771. doi: 10.1126/science.1260352
    [67] Ferronato N, Torretta V (2019) Waste management in developing countries: A review of global issues. Int J Environ Res Pub Health 16: 1-28. doi: 10.3390/ijerph16061060
  • Reader Comments
  • © 2021 the Author(s), licensee AIMS Press. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0)
通讯作者: 陈斌, bchen63@163.com
  • 1. 

    沈阳化工大学材料科学与工程学院 沈阳 110142

  1. 本站搜索
  2. 百度学术搜索
  3. 万方数据库搜索
  4. CNKI搜索

Metrics

Article views(9669) PDF downloads(786) Cited by(9)

Article outline

Figures and Tables

Figures(1)  /  Tables(3)

/

DownLoad:  Full-Size Img  PowerPoint
Return
Return

Catalog